Thursday-Friday, October 15-23, 2015 - South Korea

Day 1:
Thursday, October 15, 2015 - Got off night shift at 7:30 a.m. Left Honolulu, Hawaii, at 1:50 p.m. on Korean Air.

Day 2:
Friday, October 16, 2015 - Due to the time difference and the flight time, arrived in Incheon International Airport at 7:00 p.m.  Met with everyone at the airport.  Most of the restaurants near our hotel were closed by the time we arrived so we went to the only one that was still open within walking distance.  Ate dinner at Joomeokdaijang.  Stayed the night at Hyundai Residence Seoul in Seoul.

Day 3:
Saturday, October 17, 2015 - Gyeongbokgung Palace and the royal changing of the guard ceremony. The Blue House. Lunch at Jomaru Gamjatang. Dongdaemun market area. Bukchon Hanok Village. Insa-dong where we ate sulbing at Korean Dessert Cafe. Gwangjang market. Majang meat market where we ate dinner at Hanukmaeul. Home Plus to do some shopping. Stayed the night at Hyundai Residence Seoul in Seoul.

 Royal changing of the guard ceremony, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul. Takes place 3 times a day (10:00, 13:00, and 15:00).

Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul. This is the main and largest of the five grand palaces built by the Joseon dynasty. Built in 1395.

Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul. This hall was used for important state banquets. The building is supported by outer square pillars and inner circular columns to represent yin and yang.

The Blue House, Seoul. This is the executive office and official residence of the President of the Republic of Korea. 

Around the perimeter of the Blue House. There were secret service men on every corner, all wearing the same suits, with the same sunglasses, with the same haircuts. Felt like being in a Korean film.

 Jomaru Gamjatang, Seoul. Gamjatang is a stew made from pork spine, potatoes, and vegetables.

 Jomaru Gamjatang, Seoul. Rice added at the end when you're done with the gamjatang.

Cheonggyecheon River, Dongdaemun, Seoul. Cheonggyecheon River is part of a huge urban renewal project in which it was restored and turned into a long, modern, public recreation space in downtown, Seoul.

Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul. This place is home to hundreds of traditional houses called "hanok" that date back to the Joseon Dynasty. "Bukchon" translates to "northern village".

Insa-dong, Seoul. This neighborhood consists of one main road with alleys on each side filled with galleries, restaurants, tea houses, and cafes. At one time it was the largest market for antiques and artwork in Korea.

 Korean Dessert Cafe, Insa-dong, Seoul. Eating sulbing, or "snow ice" which is like shaved ice but made from frozen milk. We ordered the Injulmi (Korean rice cake coated in sweet bean powder), sesame, and melon. 

Gwangjang market, Seoul. One of the largest and oldest markets in Korea.

Majang meat market, Seoul. This is the largest meat market in Korea. We ate at one of the restaurants above the stalls.

Day 4
Sunday, October 18, 2015 - Bukak Skyway Palgakjeong Pavilion. Namdaemun market. Noryangjin fish market where we ate lunch. Hongdae University Street. Myeong-dong where we ate dinner at Myeongdong Kyoja (명동교자). Stayed the night at Hyundai Residence Seoul in Seoul.

Bukak Skyway Palgakjeong Pavilion, Seoul. The view from the skyway. There is also an octagonal pavilion here where you can buy a cup of coffee and take in the views.

Bukak Skyway Palgakjeong Pavilion, Seoul. Sofa-chair carved out of rock.

Namdaemun market, Seoul. A large traditional market.

Namdaemun market, Seoul. Fish-shaped waffle-thing filled with soft-serve ice cream.

Namdaemun market, Seoul. Fish-shaped waffle-thing filled with soft-serve ice cream. It was good.

 Noryangjin fish market, Seoul.

Noryangjin fish market, Seoul. We bought seafood here and had it cooked at one of the restaurants attached to the market. Wouldn't recommend it. I think they over-price the foreigners. Good to see the variety of seafood here, though.

 Hongdae University Street, Seoul. A lot of cool little shops and food stalls here. Geared toward the younger crowd. The Trick Eye Museum is also located here.

 Myeong-dong, Seoul. One of the main shopping districts. Had dinner here at Myeongdong Kyoja (명동교자).

Myeongdong Kyoja (명동교자), Myeong-dong, Seoul. This restaurant was established in 1966 and is known for their kalguksu, which is a noodle dish consisting of handmade, knife-cut, wheat flour noodles, with broth. Wasn't a fan of this place.

 Myeongdong Kyoja (명동교자), Myeong-dong, Seoul. They also serve mandu (dumplings).

Myeongdong Kyoja (명동교자), Myeong-dong, Seoul. Bibim-guksu (spicy noodles) - the best thing here. A cold noodle dish.

Myeongdong Kyoja (명동교자), Myeong-dong, Seoul. Kong-guksu (noodles in cold soybean soup).

Myeong-dong, Seoul. Walked around trying some of the street food after dinner.

Myeong-dong Cathedral, Seoul.

 View of the city and N Seoul Tower at the top of the hill, on the right, from the rooftop of our hotel, Hyundai Residence Seoul.

Day 5:
Monday, October 19, 2015 - Drove from Seoul to Nami Island. Sokcho local market. Dinner at Songhak Sundubu. Shopped for Korean snacks at E-mart, a discount store chain. Stayed the night at Resort Seorak Sorano.

 View of the city from the roof of our hotel, Hyundai Residence Seoul. Was trying to catch the sunrise, but I noticed that there is a constant haze in Seoul. They say part of the pollution is blown in from China and the other part is from the coal-powered plants, BBQs, and spa's in Korea. Forgot how lucky I am in Hawaii where everyday is a beautiful sunrise and sunset.

Since I was up early to try and catch the sunrise, I decided to explore the local street market near our hotel. This is at the intersection of Mareunnae-ro and Mareunnae-ro 12-gil. The stalls are just setting up shop.

Dried stingrays.

 A large variety of dried fish.

Drove out of Seoul to Nami Island, which was on our way to Mt. Seoraksan. Nami Island was made popular after the Korean drama, "Winter Sonata," was filmed here. You can feed ostriches here.

 Nami Island. October is a popular time to go because of the leaves changing colors.

Nami Island. This place even has a small theme park. Feels like you're going back in time.

Nami Island. Yellow leaves.

Nami Island. Green leaves. The place was filled with people.

Nami Island. Red leaves.

We ate lunch right outside of Nami Island. A man in front of the restaurant we were at was preparing to make kimchi.

 Local market in Sokcho. By the time we got here it was getting to be late. The city of Sokcho is to the northeast of South Korea. From 1945 to the end of the Korean War, it had belonged to North Korea.

 Sokcho local market. Selling different banchan, or "side dishes," that are an essential part of a Korean meal.

Sokcho local market. Fish stall.

We had dinner at Songhak Sundubu. Sokcho is known for their sundubu, or soft tofu, which is made from Mt. Seoraksan water. This particular restaurant was run by an elderly couple who made everything themselves. This simple meal was my favorite meal in Korea. Everything tasted clean and fresh.

Day 6:
Tuesday, October 20, 2015 - Mt. Seorak National Park (Sinheungsa Buddhist Temple, lunch, cable car to Gwongemseoung peak), drove back to Seoul, dinner at Baengnyeon Samgyetang. Stayed the night at Namsan Hill Hotel in Seoul.

 The front of Resort Seorak Sorano, where we had stayed the night.

Resort Seorak Sorano. The Red Cross was hosting a reunion between South Korean families and North Korean families and we happened to be staying at the same resort as those South Korean Families. There has been a series of reunions since the end of the 1950-1953 Korean War. The last one was February 2014. The day we were there, the Red Cross buses were being loaded with the first of the families who would be transported to Mount Kumgang resort, located at the border, for the first series of the meetings. The families who are allowed to go are chosen by a lottery system, and once chosen, are not allowed to meet with their North Korean families again. This will probably be the last time some of the family members will be able to see each other before they pass away. It has been about over 60 years since the Korean War ended.

 Resort Seorak Sorano. There were news companies all over the parking lot of the resort, ready to broadcast the event.

 Resort Seorak Sorano. The buses ready to load the families and the camera men ready to film.

Drove over from the resort to Mt. Seoraksan National Park. Mt. Seoraksan is the 3rd highest mountain in South Korea. We hit the main season for the national park due to the display of the autumn colors. Everyone was decked out in colorful hiking gear and apparently, it's very fashionable here.

 Sinheungsa Buddhist Temple, Mt. Seoraksan National Park. The temple is one of the head temples of the Jogye order of Korean Buddhism and is believed to be the oldest Zen (Seon) temple of the world. This gilt-bronze Buddha statue is called, "Tongil Daebul," and represents the Korean people's wish for reunification of their country.

Korean soldiers walking near Sinheungsa Buddhist Temple, Mt. Seoraksan National Park. Males are required to fulfill mandatory military service in Korea.

 Sinheungsa Buddhist Temple, Mt. Seoraksan National Park. It is unsure whether this temple was first built in 637 or 653. It was burned to the ground in 699 and rebuilt in 710. It burned again in 1645 and was rebuilt in its present day location in 1648.

 Lunch in Mt. Seoraksan National Park. Seafood pancake.

Lunch in Mt. Seoraksan National Park. Bibimbap - rice with fresh vegetables from the region, topped with an egg.

 Mt. Seoraksan National Park. After lunch we were ready to board the cable car to Gwongemseoung peak. 

Mt. Seoraksan National Park. On board the cable car to Gwongemseoung peak.

 Mt. Seoraksan National Park. After the cable car ride, you take a short walk to reach the top of Kwongeumsung peak.

 Mt. Seoraksan National Park. From the walk after the cable car, you can see the Autumn foliage.

 Dinner at Baengnyeon Samgyetang, Seoul. After Mt. Seoraksan National Park, we had a long drive back to Seoul where we had dinner before calling it a night. This restaurant is known for their samgye-tang, or gingseng chicken soup. This place seemed catered to tourist and I wouldn't particularly recommend this place. It was still good nonetheless.

Day 7:
Friday, October 21, 2015 - Seoul station to take the KTX train to Busan. Lunch at Dongnae Halmae Pajeon. Taejongdae park. Gamcheon cultural village. Dinner at 큰해물천지 (http://m.bigseafood.co.kr). Stayed the night at BS Hotel in Busan.

 Dongnae Halmae Pajeon, Busan. Woke up early to take the KTX train from Seoul Station to Busan. About a 2 1/2 hour train ride. By the time we arrived to Busan, it was about lunch time. Went to Dongnae Halmae Pajeon, which is a 50-year-old, family-run restaurant, that is known for their pajeon (pan-fried, green-onion, pancakes).

 Taejongdae park, Busan. After lunch we headed here for a stroll and watched the sunset.

 Taejongdae park, Busan. They've got the selfie game down. We saw a lot of school field trips throughout our week in South Korea.

  Dinner at 큰해물천지 (http://m.bigseafood.co.kr), Busan. Don't know the English name. This tray is an order for 4 people. The seafood was suprisingly fresh. The abalone was still moving. The soup was delicious and we added noodles to the end. Hit the spot.

Streets of Busan after dinner.

Day 8:
Saturday, October 22, 2015 - Oryukdo Skywalk. Yonggungsa Buddhist Temple. Lunch at Gaya mil-myeon. Haeundae beach. Dalmaji park. Spa Land. Haeundae market. Gukje market. Grabbed a quick bite before taking the KTX train from Busan station back to Seoul. Picked up chicken and beer along the way to eat at the place we were staying for the night. Stayed the night Hanok Guesthouse Nuha in Seoul.

 Oryukdo Skywalk, Busan. The Oryukdo Skywalk is regarded as the dividing point between the East Sea and the South Sea.

View from Oryukdo Skywalk, Busan.

 Yonggungsa Buddhist Temple, Busan. This temple was built in 1376 by the Buddhist teacher, Naong, during the Goryeo Dynasty.

Haeundae beach, Busnan. This is the most nationally renowned beach of South Korea. During the summer time the shores are packed with people.

 Lunch at Gaya mil-myeon, Busan. Noodles made from wheat flour in a icy cold chicken broth.

 Lunch at Gaya mil-myeon, Busan. Wangmandu, large steamed dumplings.

 Spa Land, Busan. A jjimjilbang, a public bathhouse, or Korean spa/sauna. Located in Shinsegae Centum City, it consists of 22 spas fed by two different kinds of all-natural spring water pumped up from 1000m underground.

 Inside Spa Land, Busan. The left is the "hardwood charcoal room".

Inside Spa Land, Busan.

Inside Spa Land, Busan. This is inside the "salt room". It has a temperature of 47.7 C (117.86 F). The salt is supposedly from the himalayas. Per the sign at the entrance of the room, the "salt room" is suppose to be good for the skin, promote body circulation, and increase immunity. There are 13 of these themed rooms.

 Haeundae market, Busan.

Haeundae market, Busan.

Gukje market, Busan. Buying ssiat hotteok (seed hotcake). A Korean-style pancake filled with a sunflower seed variation, brown sugar, honey, chopped peanuts, and cinnamon.

Gukje market, Busan. Ssiat hotteok (seed hotcake).

Gukje market, Busan. Local street food carts.

Took the KTX train from Busan back to Seoul Station. Bought chicken and beer from the many chicken and beer places on the way to the hanok where we were staying the night.

 
Day 9
Sunday, October 23, 2015 - Everyone's flight was in the morning, but mine was at night. I stayed back and met up with a friend who was staying near Seoul Station. Went to Gwangjang market for sannakji and seafood pancakes. Afterwards, we went to Silloam Hanjeungmak, a jjimjilbang. Took the Incheon Airport Railroad Express from Seoul Station to Incheon International Airport, which only cost about 8000 won. If you take Korean Air you can also check-in and get cleared through immigration at Seoul Station, so that when you get to the airport, you can bypass everything. There's also a separate security you go through that has no line. Very convenient. Flew out from Incheon at 9 p.m. with Korean Air and arrived in Honolulu, Hawaii, at 10:30 a.m. the same day.

 Gwangjang market, Seoul. Sannakji - small octopus, cut up into small pieces, that is eaten raw. The pieces are still squirming when you eat them. The small suction cups on the arm pieces can stick to your mouth.

Worked the next 4 nights in a row before flying out to Charleston right after work. Left Honolulu Wednesday, October 28th at 3:55 p.m. and arrived in Charleston Thursday, October 29th at 9:23 a.m. Explored Hilton Head, Savannah, Tybee Island, and Charleston. Glad I went. So close to not going. Thanks if you're reading this. Flew back from Charleston, Sunday, November 1st at 6:39 a.m. and arrived in Honolulu Sunday, November 1st at 3:15 p.m. Flight was delayed about 45 minutes during the layover in Chicago.